Foie Gras or just Foie Gross?!
There are legions of young chefs out there who believe that high-end food must include lobster, foie gras, mounds of butter and caviar – sometimes all on the same plate! High- end Kobe beef burgers with a slab of seared foie gras and lobster towers with foie gras toppers have become signature dishes for chefs who have barely mastered their culinary chops; anxious to get their hands on expensive fare but hard-pressed to cook a simple fish fillet properly.
Don’t get me wrong, I love a buttery, nutty slab of seared foie gras as much as the next food junkie. But remember when it was served pristine, with a little coarse salt, simple toast points and the prerequisite glass of Sauternes? Flavours have become completely convoluted in composed platters of all things decadent; a novice to this particular luxury doesn’t have a fair chance to savour the thoroughly unique experience of foie gras. And, it is a luxury item; it should not be slathered appetizer to dessert across the total menu.
I recently attended the opening of a new restaurant and had the misfortune of being served a bittersweet chocolate coated foie gras lollipop as an appetizer. If you are ever offered such a thing, I recommend that you have the good sense decline. Unfortunately, I did not. (I know it’s foie gras, but believe me when I tell you to just say NO!)
When food stands on its own, it is the true test of quality product and skilled technique. Creative nuance is great, but it cannot be at the expense of the ingredients. A good chef will always be inspired and celebrate a quality ingredient, however humble, rather than pulling out all the stops to elevate inferior ingredients into something they are not.
Your surly food blogger,
Christine
